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Mowbray

Peptides have become a popular word in the cosmetic industry lately. With so many products advertising peptide breakthroughs it can be difficult to discern between products that truly help the skin and those that use scientific words to sell a worthless cream.

The only copper peptides that have been proven to improve skin and hair (in published studies) are those invented and patented by Dr. Pickart while at the ProCyte Corporation and the newer breakdown-resistant, long-acting SRCPs Dr.Pickart developed at Skin Biology. See Patents and Clinical Studies.

Untried Copper Peptides

Not all copper peptides and copper complexes have these actions. A number of companies sell copper complexes purported to help skin but there is no credible scientific evidence (such as peer reviewed publications in dermatology journals) that these complexes give effective skin regeneration. We have tested many of these products and found only marginal activity at best. Most had no activity and some actually inhibited skin renewal. Some are made with yeast and bacteria peptides that may cause allergic reactions.

Because of a number of patents on the uses of various copper peptides held by Skin Biology and other by the ProCyte Corporation, some cosmetic companies have resorted to using unpatented and untested copper peptides or other copper complexes.

The Peptide Craze

Many companies have jumped on the peptide bandwagon with single peptides but these appear to be similar in action to scar producing peptides that were extensively studied for potential uses as wound healing drugs but failed due to excessive scar formation. Read more about unsafe cosmetic products.

Keep in mind that just because a cream or serum contains peptides, it does not mean the peptide does your skin any good. A peptide is simply a chain of amino acids. Whether this chain has positive or negative actions on your skin is impossible to know without independent clinical studies.

Evelyn de Morgan - Cadmus and Harmonia

While Considering Peptides Used in Cosmetics:

  • If companies cannot send you studies on their products, published in reputable, reviewed scientific journals, do not buy their products;
  • You can buy skin and hair products based on real medical science and extensively tested for safety for the same prices as the "hyped" products;
  • The only copper peptides to have passed intensive and adequate safety testing are those sold by Skin Biology, Neutrogena and ProCyte;
  • Not all copper peptides have tissue regenerative properties. Copper peptides can be inactive or highly toxic. Many venoms and bacterial toxins are copper peptides. See Snake Venom Copper Peptides(link);
  • Some cosmetic companies use various copper chelates such as copper EDTA, copper gluconate, or copper PCA (copper 5-oxo-L-proline, copper 2-pyrrolidine-5-carboxylic acid). Such types of complexes are usually very toxic to fibroblasts, the primary skin repair cell;
  • Many single peptides (without copper) being advertised for skin renewal appear to be similar in action to skin hardening and scar producing peptides that were extensively studied for potential uses as wound healing drugs;
  • Some companies marketing improved copper peptides are the same companies that have been, in the past, heavily fined by the U.S. government for false and deceptive advertising of skin and hair products.

 

Comparison of Various Types of Copper Peptides Used Commercially

GHK - The natural human signal for skin regeneration and remodeling
Independent published studies in scientific journals
Very high
Dr. Pickart's 1st generation of copper peptides. Best studied. Perfect biochemistry for skin renewal.

 

Skin Remodeling Copper Peptides (Fraction of soy protein peptides)
Independent published studies in scientific journals
Very high
Dr. Pickart's 2nd generation of copper peptides designed to overcome problems with the 1st generation copper peptides. Very stable and breakdown resistant. Can be used with hydroxy acids. Demonstrated strong skin repair and anti-inflammatory properties.

 

Pentapeptides and aminopeptides
None
Questionable. Some customers say they cause hard spots to develop on the skin.
Some are compared by their manufacturers to TGF-beta. TGF-beta and similar peptides produced irreversible scarring in wound healing studies.

 

Bacterial produced peptides such as Bacillus Subtilis
None
Could be toxic
Bacillus Subtilis proteins and peptides produce many allergies, skin reactions and asthma.

 

Colorless Copper Peptides
None
Could be toxic
Colorless copper is copper (1+) and has never been found to stimulate skin repair. See Other Cosmetic Products.
Not All Peptides Remodel the Skin