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Peptides have become a popular word in the cosmetic industry lately. With so many products advertising peptide breakthroughs it can be difficult to discern between products that truly help the skin and those that use scientific words to sell a worthless cream.
The only copper peptides that have been proven to improve skin and hair (in published studies) are those invented and patented by Dr. Pickart while at the ProCyte Corporation and the newer breakdown-resistant, long-acting SRCPs Dr.Pickart developed at Skin Biology. See Patents and Clinical Studies.
Untried Copper Peptides
Not all copper peptides and copper complexes have these actions. A number of companies sell copper complexes purported to help skin but there is no credible scientific evidence (such as peer reviewed publications in dermatology journals) that these complexes give effective skin regeneration. We have tested many of these products and found only marginal activity at best. Most had no activity and some actually inhibited skin renewal. Some are made with yeast and bacteria peptides that may cause allergic reactions.
Because of a number of patents on the uses of various copper peptides held by Skin Biology and other by the ProCyte Corporation, some cosmetic companies have resorted to using unpatented and untested copper peptides or other copper complexes.
The Peptide Craze
Many companies have jumped on the peptide bandwagon with single peptides but these appear to be similar in action to scar producing peptides that were extensively studied for potential uses as wound healing drugs but failed due to excessive scar formation. Read more about unsafe cosmetic products.
Keep in mind that just because a cream or serum contains peptides, it does not mean the peptide does your skin any good. A peptide is simply a chain of amino acids. Whether this chain has positive or negative actions on your skin is impossible to know without independent clinical studies.
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While Considering Peptides Used in Cosmetics:
Comparison of Various Types of Copper Peptides Used Commercially
| Type of Copper Peptide | GHK - The natural human signal for skin regeneration and remodeling |
| Published Articles of Effectiveness in Scientific Journals | Independent published studies in scientific journals |
| Safety | Very high |
| Advantages and Problems | Dr. Pickart's 1st generation of copper peptides. Best studied. Perfect biochemistry for skin renewal. |
| Type of Copper Peptide | Skin Remodeling Copper Peptides (Fraction of soy protein peptides) |
| Published Articles of Effectiveness in Scientific Journals | Independent published studies in scientific journals |
| Safety | Very high |
| Advantages and Problems | Dr. Pickart's 2nd generation of copper peptides designed to overcome problems with the 1st generation copper peptides. Very stable and breakdown resistant. Can be used with hydroxy acids. Demonstrated strong skin repair and anti-inflammatory properties. |
| Type of Copper Peptide | Pentapeptides and aminopeptides |
| Published Articles of Effectiveness in Scientific Journals | None |
| Safety | Questionable. Some customers say they cause hard spots to develop on the skin. |
| Advantages and Problems | Some are compared by their manufacturers to TGF-beta. TGF-beta and similar peptides produced irreversible scarring in wound healing studies. |
| Type of Copper Peptide | Bacterial produced peptides such as Bacillus Subtilis |
| Published Articles of Effectiveness in Scientific Journals | None |
| Safety | Could be toxic |
| Advantages and Problems | Bacillus Subtilis proteins and peptides produce many allergies, skin reactions and asthma. |
| Type of Copper Peptide | Colorless Copper Peptides |
| Published Articles of Effectiveness in Scientific Journals | None |
| Safety | Could be toxic |
| Advantages and Problems | Colorless copper is copper (1+) and has never been found to stimulate skin repair. See Other Cosmetic Products. |