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Effective and Ineffective Hydroxy Acid Creams
An Alternative to Chemical Peels
Safety of Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) increase sun sensitivity by 13% on average but in some people by as much as 50%.
For a 50% increase in sun sensitivity, a hydroxy acid formulated with a sun protection factor of 2 would eliminate the added sun sensitivity.
AHAs with concentrations of 20% or higher are considered chemical skin peels and should be applied by a dermatologist or trained cosmetologist at a clinic or salon.
AHAs also may increase the penetration of other chemicals used on the skin. These include vitamins, antibiotics, Retin-A, benzoyl peroxide, resorcinol, and other dermatological medications.
One should be aware of this possible interaction when using AHAs along with other skin treatments.
By 1997, The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) had received about 100 reports of adverse effects with AHAs ranging from mild irritation and stinging to blistering and burns.
The FDA advises you to test any product that contains an AHA on a small area of skin before applying it to a large area.
If you experience skin irritation or prolonged stinging, you should stop using the product and consult your physician.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel of the Personal Care Products Council concluded in December 1996 that alpha hydroxy acids are "safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations less than or equal to 10 percent, at final formulation pHs greater than or equal to 3.5, when formulated to avoid increasing the skin's sensitivity to the sun, or when directions for use include the daily use of sun protection."
For salon use products, the panel said that the products are "safe for use at concentrations less than or equal to 30 percent, at final formulation pHs greater than or equal to 3.0, in products designed for brief, discontinuous use followed by thorough rinsing from the skin, when applied by trained professionals, and when application is accompanied by directions for the daily use of sun protection."
