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Algae Extracts (Astaxanthin) sooth and moisturize the skin. Algae is rich in minerals that help to revitalise the skin, containing antioxidants that are 25 times stronger than Vitamin E. Algae extracts are used to add vital oligo-elements and increase surface hydration1.
Allantoin is a botanical extract found in the comfrey root. Allantoin is a valuable cell proliferating healing agent that stimulates new tissue growth. A superb anti-irritant, allantoin is healing, soothing and non-allergenic. Allantoin is also known skin softener, cleaning up damaged tissue where applied.
Aloe leaf (Aloe barbadensis) has strong soothing properties and works to bind moisture to the skin2. There is also some research suggesting aloe is effective in wound healing3.
Beta-sitosterol is a phytosterol (plant sterol) that occurs naturally in many plants from black cumin seed (nigella) to wolfberries. The chemical structure of beta-sitosterol is similar to cholesterol. Beta-sitosterol may have a positive effect on male hair loss when used in combination with saw palmetto.
Calendula (pot marigold) is a genus of about 12-20 species of annual or perennial herbaceous plants in the daisy family Asteraceae, native to the area from Macaronesia east through the Mediterranean region to Iran. The common name marigold probably refers to the Virgin Mary, or its old Saxon name 'ymbglidegold', which means 'it turns with the sun'. Marigolds typically bloom quickly (in under two months) in bright yellows, reds, and oranges throughout the summer and well into the fall. Marigolds have a spicy aroma and are produced from spring to autumn in temperate climates. Marigold petals are considered edible.
Camphor is obtained from the wood of a tree common to Southeast Asia, Cinnamomum camphora. When applied to the skin camphor produces a cooling effect similar to menthol leaves. Camphor is used in conjunction with menthol as an anti-inflammatory.
Cellulose is the structural component of the primary cell wall of green plants, many forms of algae and the oomycetes. Cellulose is the most common organic compound on Earth. About 33 percent of all plant matter is cellulose. Cellulose is obtained from cotton and used as a thickening and binding agent in our products.
Cetrimonium chloride is an ammonium salts used in shampoos and conditioners to prevent or inhibit the buildup of static electricity. Centrimonium chloride carries a positive charge that attracts negatively charged skin and hair proteins. Centrimonium chloride also helps to prevent odor by destroying or inhibiting the growth of microorganisms and by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away. The safety of Cetrimonium Chloride was assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated the scientific data and concluded that centriumonium chloride was safe for use in rinse-off products and was safe for use at concentrations of up to 0.25% in leave-on products.
Cetyl alcohol is derived from coconut oil and used as an emollient, emulsifier, and thickening agent.
Chamomile plants include matricaria recutita, chamomilla recutita, and matricaria chamomilla. The main constituents of the flowers include phenolic compounds, primarily the flavonoids apigenin, quercetin, patuletin, luteolin, and their glucosides. The principal components of the essential oil extracted from the flowers are the terpenoids α-bisabolol and its oxides and azulenes, including chamazulene. Chamomile has moderate antioxidant and antimicrobial activities, and significant anti-platelet activity in vitro.
Citric acid is used to adjust the acidity of products. Derived from citrus fruits.
Cocamidopropyl betaine is a derivate of cocamide and glycine betaine (a form of betaine). Cocamidopropyl betaine is a very gentle medium strength surfactant. Cocamidopropyl betaine also works as an emulsifier and thickener and as an antistatic agent. Cocamidopropyl betaine is the active ingredient in Johnson & Johnson's Baby wash.
Dr. Pickart 1st generation copper peptides use small peptides similar to GHK. The 2nd generation breakdown resistant peptides are from hydrolyzates from proteins such a soy, collagen, and elastin. These products have excellent safety profiles.
Dimethylaminoethanol, also known as DMAE or dimethylethanolamine, is an organic compound with strong anti-inflammatory and aging reversal properties. DMAE is found naturally in fish and also exists in the human nerve tissue. DMAE is a precursor to the stimulatory neurotransmitter acetylcholine, a chemical that stimulates nerve function and stimulates the muscles to contract and tighten under the skin. As we age, our levels of acetylcholine decrease and this decline is associated with sagging skin as well as memory loss. Increasing your acetylcholine levels, either through application or supplementation is essential reverse the effects of aging.
CLICK HERE to read more information on DMAE
While lipid replenishment methods are still being developed by dermatological scientists, emu oil is already a very good natural oil for lipid replenishment. It comes from small ostrich-like bird. The emu (Doromiceius novae-hollandiae) is the world's second largest bird, only second to the ostrich. An adult bird stands 5 feet tall, weighs 120 pounds, and can run 30 miles an hour. The species may have existed for 80 million years, and survived when the dinosaurs perished 65 million years ago.
Australian aborigines discovered the benefits of Emu Oil many thousands of years ago and used its helpful properties on damaged and sunburned skin. In more recent work, a study at Texas Tech reported that topically-applied Emu Oil reduces burn pain as effectively as when compared to 600 milligrams of Ibuprofen taken 3 times daily.
The fatty acid composition of human skin oil and Emu Oil are very similar. In both oils mono-unsaturated oleic acid is the most prevalent, then palmitic acid, followed by the essential fatty acid, linoleic acid. This may be the reason for the positive actions of Emu Oil on human skin.
A study found strong anti-inflammatory effects of topically applied Emu Oil after skin was exposed to the a very strong irritant: Croton Oil. By 12 hours, after applying Emu Oil, there was significantly less edema and swelling than controls not treated with the oil. Another study found that if Emu Oil was applied immediately after a wounding injury it delayed healing. However, if applied 2 days after injury it then aided the healing process. Skin researchers at the University of Texas Medical School in Houston reported that Emu Oil at up to 100 % concentration in lotions to be nonallergenic, non-comedogenic, have low irritation potential, and are bacteriostatic.
While scientific studies on Emu Oil are just beginning, Emu Oil has been traditionally used help alleviate discomfort of arthritis, shingles, eczema, psoriasis and other inflammatory conditions5.
Ethylhexyl palmitate, or octyl palmitate, is the ester of 2-ethylhexanol and palmitic acid. Palmitic acid is one of the most common saturated fatty acids found in animals and plants. As its name indicates, it is a major component of the oil from palm trees (palm oil and palm kernel oil). The word palmitic is from the French "palmitique", the pith of the palm tree. Ethylhexyl palmitate is used as an emollient and thickening agent.
Coloring agents approved by the FDA for use in food, drugs and cosmetics. These colors have been extensively studied and are classified as “permanently approved” for use in drugs and foods.
A human copper peptide complex - GHK-Cu (glycyl-l-histidyl-l-lysine:copper(II)). The tripeptide, GHK, discovered by Dr. Pickart, is generated by proteolysis after tissue injury. Its high affinity for copper(II) allows it to obtain copper from carrier molecules such as albumin and form GHK-Cu, and transport copper to cells.
Glycerol, glycerin or glycerine is a sugar alcohol and the central component of many lipids. Glycerin is obtained from the fermentation of sugars. Glycerin improves skin moisture levels by attracting water to the skin. Glycerin also strengthens the work of other skin lipids6.
Glycine is the smallest of 20 amino acids commonly found in proteins. Glycine makes up about 35% of collagen. The glycine in our products acts as a water-binding agent, though it also has antioxidant properties and wound healing abilities. Glycine is essential to maintaining healthy central nervous and digestive systems, and has recently been shown to provide protection via antioxidants from some types of cancer.
Glycine is used in the body to help construct normal DNA and RNA strands—the genetic material needed for proper cellular function and formation. It helps prevent the breakdown of muscle by boosting the body’s levels of creatine, a compound that helps build muscle mass. Without glycine the body would not be able to repair damaged tissues; the skin would become slack as it succumbed to UV rays, oxidation, and free radical damage, and wounds would never heal.
High-protein foods, such as fish, meat, beans, milk, and cheese, are the best dietary sources of glycine.
Golden seal root (Orange-root, Orangeroot; Hydrastis canadensis) is a perennial herb in the buttercup family Ranunculaceae, native to southeastern Canada and the northeastern United States. It may be distinguished by its thick, yellow knotted rootstock. The stem is purplish and hairy above ground and yellow below ground where it connects to the yellow rhizome. The plant bears 2 palmate, hairy leaves with 5-7 double-toothed lobes and single, small, inconspicuous flowers with greenish white stamens in the late spring. It bears a single berry like a large raspberry with 10-30 seeds in the summer.
Golden seal has long been used for medicinal purposes in North America. Golden seal works as a topical antimicrobial alone, but is often used in combinations to boost the effects of other herbs.
Guar Hydropropyltrimonium Choride
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is derived from guar gum, a green bean. Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is used for its conditioning properties in shampoos and conditioners. The cationic charge of the guar has been shown to improve the ease of combing7.
Henna is a flowering plant native to tropical and subtropical regions of Africa, southern Asia, and northern Australasia. Extracts of henna are used in shampoos to bring out natural highlights and add luster.
A special perfume that lends our products a subtle scent. If you are sensitive to fragrances, you can view the allergen sheet here.
Hops are the female flower cones of the hop plant (Humulus lupulus). The hop plant is a vigorous climbing herbaceous perennial, usually grown up strings in a field called a hopfield, hop garden or hop yard.
Horsetail is a vascular plant that reproduces by spores rather than seeds. It is found in sandy soils and is cooked and eaten in Japan.
Hydrolyzed soy protein (glycine soja) is derived from soybeans and broken down by water to form a complex with copper to produce copper peptides. See copper peptides.
Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid extracted from milk. Read about alpha hydroxy acids.
Lauramide MEA is a surfactant. Surfactants are designed to make lots of bubbles and clean the hair. Surfactants degrease and emulsify oils and fats and suspend soil, allowing them to be washed away. Surfactants are used in most forms of cleansers and many of them are considered gentle and effective for most skin types.
Leucine is an essential amino acid. Leucine is used by the body to repair bone, skin and muscle tissue. On the outermost layer of the skin, called the stratum corneum, leucine helps keep the skin moisturized as a natural moisturizing factor (NMF). Natural moisturizing factors absorb water from the atmosphere and use it to keep the skin hydrated in dry conditions. Because natural moisturizing factors like leucine are water soluble, repeated contact with water will leach these factors from the skin, making the skin drier until the factors can be replaced. Leucine is not synthesized in the body and is often obtained through diet in foods like peanuts, lentils and chickpeas.
Lutein (from Latin lutea meaning "yellow") is one of over 600 known naturally occurring carotenoids. Found in green leafy vegetables such as spinach and kale, lutein is employed by organisms as an antioxidant and for blue light absorption. Lutein has shown strong antioxidant activity8. Lutein is also used as a skin conditioning agent in our products.
Lycopene (solanum lycopersicum) is a tomato extract high in beta carotene, a natural source of vitamin A, which protects and strengthens the skin9.
Melatonin (5-methoxy-N-acetyltryptamine), is a naturally occurring hormone found in most animals, including humans, and some other living organisms, including algae.
Melatonin exerts a powerful antioxidant activity. In many lower life forms, it serves only this purpose. In animal models, melatonin has been demonstrated to prevent the damage to DNA by some carcinogens, stopping the mechanism by which they cause cancer.
Melatonin also protects against UV radiation. Scientists at the University of Zurich have shown that topical melatonin gives excellent protection against sunburn if applied before sun exposure. Melatonin also appears to play a role in repairing burned skin. In a study in Brain Research Bulletin, melatonin levels rose six hours after burn injury, then fell to normal.
In small amounts, melatonin causes skin cells to proliferate. People with psoriasis and atopic eczema do not have normal melatonin secretion. With psoriasis, for example, melatonin peaks in the day when it shouldn't, and there's little at night.10
Menthol is derived from peppermint and has a cooling and soothing effect on skin.
PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate is non-oily, nearly dry emollient. It improves spreading and reduces the greasy feel of mineral oil. PPG-2 myristyl ether propionate is a mixture of glycols and fatty alcohols.
Olive oil, what Homer called “liquid gold”, works as an emollient in our skin creams. Olive oil is an antioxidant and improves skin moisture. Olive oil may also protect against UVB damage11.
Panthenol is a non-irriating form of Vitamin B that is usually derived from plants. Panthenol binds to hair follicles, lubricating the follicles and adding shine to hair. Its name is derived from the Greek pantothen (παντ?θεν) meaning "from everywhere" and small quantities of pantothenic acid are found in nearly every food, with high amounts in whole-grain cereals, legumes, eggs, meat, and royal jelly.
Phenoxyethanol, or rose ether, is a very gentle preservative derived from coconut oil and is used as a preservative in foods. It is also used in many cosmetic products including Johnson’s Baby Softwash Cleansing Cloths. Phenoxyethanol, which does not release formaldehyde, is one of the least irritating preservatives on the market with such an extensive safety profile that it is approved for use in vaccines. For more about preservatives, see our page about parabens.
Pheromone SB-74 is a natural oil product developed by Skin Biology. It was developed during a search for mood enhancers that would improve interpersonal feelings, but it is not an aphrodisiac like jasmine or ylang ylang. If you have an allergy to many fragrances you can view the allergen sheet here.
Polyquaterniums are ammonium compounds used in hair care products for their anti-static properties. Polyquaterniums help construct a smooth surface on hair strands to produce more lustrous, silky hair.
Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) is derived from lauric acid, which is derived from coconuts. Polysorbates function as an emulsifiers and also has mild surfactant properties. Polysorbates are considered non-toxic and safe.
Pullulan is a glucan gum produced by black yeast that contains polysaccharides, which makes it a good water-binding agent, thickening agent, and antioxidant. It has some antioxidant properties and is a strong anti-inflammatory agent12.
Pygeum africanum is derived from the bark of the African cherry tree. The phytosterols in pygeum africanum inhibit prostaglandin biosynthesis thereby reducing inflammation. A number of studies have shown pygeum africanum to lead to improvements in benign prostatic hypertrophy (BPH) and it is a common herbal supplement for BPH symptoms in Europe.
Retinyl Palmitate is a combination of retinol (pure vitamin A) and palmitic acid. Retinyl palmitate is a strong aid in skin repair. Read more.
Safflower seed oil (carthamus tinctorius) is used as an emollient in our products.
Safflower is one of humanity's oldest crops. Chemical analysis of ancient Egyptian textiles dated to the Twelfth dynasty identified dyes made from safflower, and garlands made from safflowers were found in the tomb of the pharaoh Tutankhamun.
Salicylic acid was first obtained from the bark of the willow tree, Salix. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid exfoliator and one of the best known skin renewal methods. Salicylic acid helps retain moisture in very dry skin, as well as helping reduce fine lines and uneven color of sun-damaged skin. Salicylic acid, unlike alpha hydroxy acids, can penetrate into your skin's pores to remove blemishes and reduce acne. For more on salicylic acids benefits...
Historical use of saw palmetto can be traced in the Americas to the Mayans who used it as a tonic and to the Seminoles who took the berries as an expectorant and antiseptic.
Saw palmetto was listed in the United States Pharmacopeia from 1906 to 1917 and in the National Formulary from 1926 to 1950.
Saw palmetto is also popular as an herbal remedy for a type of hair loss and baldness called androgenic alopecia, or male- and female-pattern baldness. This type of hair loss is typically the greatest at the top of the head or around the temples.
It's believed that it may block an enzyme (5-alpha-reductase) from allowing the hormone testosterone from being converted to another hormone, dihydrotestosterone. Dihydrotestosterone is considered a key contributing factor to the onset and progression of androgenic alopecia and benign prostatic hyperplasia.
The soap bark tree or quillaja saponaria is an evergreen tree native to warm temperate central Chile north to Peru. The inner bark of quillaja saponaria can be reduced to powder and employed as a substitute for soap, since it forms a lather with water, owing to the presence of a glucoside saponin, sometimes distinguished as quillaia saponin. Saponins, have cleansing, antimicrobial, and water-binding properties for skin. They have also been shown to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties14.
Squalane is a natural biological oil obtained from olive oil. Squalane makes up about 15% of skin fats in the teenage years but this declines to about 5% after age 50. This is a major factor in the skin becoming rough, dry, and vulnerable to damage.
When rubbed on skin, squalane acts to improve skin protection and moisturization. Squalane is absorbed deeply and quickly into the skin and does not leave an oily film. It is especially useful on dry scaly portions of the body as it helps to maintain your skin's natural moisture level and produces the appearance of softer, smoother skin.
Stearic acid is a fatty acid that comes from vegetable oil. Its name comes from the Greek word stéar, which means tallow. The salts and esters of stearic acid are called stearates. Stearic acid is an emollient.
PEG 100 stearate is a mixture of polyethylene glycol and stearic acid. This mixture of fatty acids and fatty alcohols acts as a binding agent and a stabilizer.
Glycerol stearate is a mixture of fats and oils that work as an emollient, lubricant, water-binding and thickening agent.
Tea extract (cammelia sinesis) has strong anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic properties when applied to the skin. Tea extract has also been shown recently to protect against UV-induced skin damage and prevent photoaging.
Mineral used as a sunscreen ingredient in cosmetics. Titanium dioxide protects skin from UVA and UVB radiation and is considered to have no risk of skin irritation. Titanium dioxide is the safest sunscreen chemical in use13. For more see Healthy Suntanning.
The best antioxidant you can give your skin, tocopherols, tocotrienols and tocophersolan are different member of the vitamin E family. Both tocopherols and tocotrienols are fat-soluble antioxidants and have been exhaustively studied. Vitamin E can be obtained from many foods, including olive oil, nuts and seabuckthorn berries15.
Coenzyme Q-10 (Ubiquinone, CoQ10) was first discovered by professor Fred L. Crane and colleagues at the University of Wisconsin-Madison Enzyme Institute in 1957. CoQ10 is a natural part of your body's cell protection function and energy synthesis. Studies have confirmed CoQ10 to be a powerful antioxidant for the skin and is effective in reducing wrinkles16.
CoQ10 is found in mackerel and herring.
Wheat amino acids help add body and fullness to hair.
The wild cherry tree (prunus serotina) is native to the North American woods. The bark is rough and nearly black on older trunks, but that used is younger, smooth, glossy and reddish brown with white lenticels and underlying greenish-brown cortex.